Let me just begin this post by saying that I LOVE skincare. Meaning, I truly believe that a carefully curated skincare regime can actually change your life. I might sound dramatic here, but truth is that we all want to look and feel our best possible and, for me, this has to do with healthy skin. Glowing, effervescent and clear skin is something I have always yearned for. It shows that you are treating your body right, that you listen to its needs and that you invest time and effort in making your body, and essentially your skin, happy.

Achieving beautiful skin requires that you understand a little bit about what’s actually inside each cosmetic product. A serum may tell you that it will fade blemishes, hyper-pigmentation and dullness, but how exactly is it going to do that? What ingredients are good for your skin type & good for your skin’s needs? I could go on about this topic for ages, but since we all have better things to do then sit in front of screen forever, I decided to simply give you a quick overview of skincare ingredients: which ones are worth looking out for and which ones would be better off nowhere near your face.

Great Ingredients you should look out for

Before I talk your ears off about all the wonderful things that can be found hidden in a tiny cosmetic bottle, I want to mention that I personally only use natural skincare. This means I won’t recommend any artificial chemicals here. I believe that nature has everything that we need to achieve glowing beautiful skin. Its important to remember that the fillers and dangerous artificial ingredients found in conventional cosmetics will inevitably be absorbed by the biggest organ that we have—our skin. Now, let’s dive in.

Vitamin A

You can’t go wrong with Vitamin A—it’s beneficial to almost every skincare problem. It normalizes skin functions and thickens the dermis, so wrinkles have less of a chance of appearing. It also increases the deposition of collagen and it is therefore the best natural anti-aging ingredient out there. It is also known as Renova, Retin A, Tretinoin and Retinol. Although you should try to stay away from Retinol, as it is a synthetic ingredient that is not easily digested and not safe to use by women who are pregnant. Also, Vitamin A should only be used at nighttime since it can make your skin sensitive to the sun. If you are looking for a natural Vitamin A option, you can find it in Pai’s Rosehip Oil and any product that contains Carrot Extract.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant powerhouse. It can prevent all kinds of skin woes, including hyper-pigmentation and the aftereffects of exposure to the elements. You could call it a protective shield for your skin. It can also brighten your complexion and add radiance. Seabuckthorn is extremely rich in vitamin C, as is nettle extract and broccoli oil. It may be also listed as ascorbic acid or L-ascorbic acid in the ingredients list. Yüli’s Cell Perfecto PM is extremely rich in ascorbic acid and can renew healthy cell structure and strengthen your skin.

Vitamin E

Vitamin occurs naturally in human skin and is also a strong antioxidant that protects the skin from environmental damage. Research has shown that natural Vitamin E is actually more powerful than any synthetic counterpart, so there is no need to go for a synthetic alternative here. Our beloved Kahina Giving Beauty Argan Oil is actually full of vitamin E, which can restore elasticity in the skin and neutralize free radicals that cause signs of aging. Vitamin E is also known as tocopherol.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our skin, but we unfortunately lose the ability to produce and hold on to it with aging. It is responsible for retaining moisture in our skin and gives skin a nourished and plump look. It is also anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, which helps keeping breakouts at bay. If you don’t use a product yet that contains hyaluronic acid, I highly recommend trying M.Picault Hydra Miracle Serum or Pai’s Replenishing Day Cream. Dehydrated skin types will be able to see instant results.

AHA

Alpha Hydroxy Acids such as glycolic and lactic acids originate from milk and fruit acids. Acids can penetrate the skin deeply and act as exfoliants. They essentially remove dead skin cells so new skin can grow. Scars fade quicker and also wrinkles are reduced. Overall the texture of your skin will improve. Look out for fruit enzyme extracts or sugar beets in the ingredients list or try Pai’s AHA mask. It has helped me personally with my acne scars and also works great to calm down breakouts.

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B3 has been shown to increase moisture levels in the skin and stimulate microcirculation. Acne is reduced and skin discolorations disappear. You can find Vitamin B3, otherwise known as niacinamide, in avocado and sunflower oil. NUORI’s newly launched Supreme Moisture Mask is bursting with Vitamin B3, leaving your skin nourished and protected.

Green Tea

My colleague Emma has recently listed all the benefits of prepared green tea here, but this natural antioxidant is also a great ingredient to look for in your skincare. It reduces cell damage and protects your skin from harmful effects of sun exposure. An easy way to add in some green tea into your daily skincare routine is the Green Tea Konjac.

Grape Seed

Grape Seed has amazing wound healing properties, making it a powerful weapon against any breakouts and inflammations. It is also a great resource for providing your skin with extra moisture. You can find it in countless serums and oils. Kimberly Sayer’s Hydrating Anti-Oxidant Facial Mask contains Grapeseed Extract, which will protect your skin from free radicals and deliver immediate results, even after just one use.

Ingredients you can live without

These ingredients I would recommend avoiding as much as possible. Mostly because your skin does not need them, as they don’t provide any essential benefit for keeping your skin healthy and glowing. They will not necessarily do harm, but they will also not give you a WOW effect.

Stem Cells

A few years ago some skincare brands introduced stem cells as the new wonder weapon against wrinkles. However, I honestly do not think that you need stem cells in your skin care. Firstly, because they come with a hefty price tag and secondly because research has not shown that stem cells actually benefit the skin by increasing cell turnover.

Caffeine

Do not get me wrong here. I am all for coffee scrubs and cappuccinos. What I do not need is added caffeine in any of my skincare. Simply because the effects of caffeine directly applied to the skin are not permanent. It can quickly de-puff your eyes but the results won’t be permanent. Try green tea extract instead.

Artificial Dyes & Scents

You’d be surprised if you knew how many skincare brands pimp up their product by adding synthetic dyes and colors. Natural products often have a slightly yellow tint to them, with a few exceptions like the 100% natural gorgeous blue color from the magical blue tansy you can see in May Lindstrom’s Blue Cocoon. Conventional products tend to be either bright blue, artificially white or even purple. Your skin does not need any of this. The same goes for artificial fragrances.

Ingredients to avoid

Now, all of these are not allowed anywhere near my bathroom. Most of them are cheap fillers, which will either do nothing for your skin or just clog your pores. What is even more scary is the fact that they can do much more harm than just causing your skin to break out.

Parabens

These are probably the most used preservatives in the cosmetics industry. They are supposed to prevent mold and fungus from developing, which is a good thing right? Well, your skin absorbs everything you put on it and parabens have been proven to increase the risk of breast cancer both in men and women. Luckily, there are several natural alternatives to parabens, so there is no need for them in our life.

Phthalates

Although I cannot really pronounce this ingredient, I do know that I’d rather not use it on my face. It’s a substance that acts as an hormone disruptor. It can cause reproductive defects and developmental problems in children. Phthalates are often hiding in artificial fragrances, so try to stick to products that use essential oils for a lovely smell.

Triclosan

You can find triclosan in a lot of products that claim to be anti-bacterial. Which is also the issue here. Triclosan is very aggressive and will kill off any bacteria on your skin, including the good ones that your skin naturally carries. Soap and water will do a way better job at keeping your skin healthy and clean.

Petroleum

Let’s talk about one of the cheapest ingredients out there, which also hides in countless skincare products. It’s the very same substance as the motor oil you put in your car. Now why again is it then part of something that touches your skin? I seriously don’t know. The World Health Organization has listed Petroleum as a carcinogen. Do you still want to moisturize your face with it?

Silicones

Another cheap filler that you can easily skip. Silicones create a protective, artificial layer on skin and hair, making it impossible to retain moisture afterwards. Your skin might feel smooth at the first touch, but under this heavy synthetic layer it is slowly becoming dehydrated. Same goes for your hair. It will look shiny but also break extremely easily when washed with products that contain silicons. Detoxing from silicons can take a couple of weeks, but I strongly recommend it to anyone who wants to grow out their hair.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)

SLSs’ are responsible for all the nice foam some skin and hair care products create when you emulsify them with water. They also aggressively strip the skin of oils and moisture, while possibly irritating skin, lungs and eyes. Especially people with sensitive skin should have a closer look at the back of their favorite shampoo or shower gel.

I hope this first little guide can help some of you choose the right products for your skin concerns and problems. It can all be a little bit overwhelming in the beginning, which is why you should take your time and closely read every label before purchasing a new product. Since a lot of manufacturers use synonyms for different ingredients, you can use apps like codecheck to see if a harmful ingredient is hiding in a product.

If you would like to know more about a specific ingredient, leave your requests and questions in the comments below!