No one wants to give up a good lipstick, though they might think twice if they knew it was exposing them to dangerous heavy metals. Recent studies detected lead in 61 percent of 33 lipsticks tested ¹. What the beauty industry puts into its products pertains to more than just consumer safety. Indeed, amongst environmentalists, manufacturers, and government agencies alike, there is a concerted push to promote safer cosmetics.

While lipsticks are not the only potential source of exposure to heavy metals like lead, the lips and mouth are an obvious oral route to exposure. When lead-free alternatives are available, why are these substances still allowed as an additive to lipsticks?

The problem is that authorities disagree on the exact safe maximum level of lead exposure. While the European Union has banned toxic heavy metals in makeup products, standards differ in places like the United States and other parts of the world, where there is no limit to the amount of lead a lipstick can contain. Due to this international incongruence, companies can dispute toxic ramifications from lead in lipsticks. This also means there is a lack of an incentive to remove or reduce the concentrations.

What’s so bad about heavy metals?

Some heavy metals, like zinc, selenium and copper, are essential to a functioning body. But other heavy metals, which we refer to as toxic heavy metals, can be harmful. Mercury, lead and arsenic are among the most well known of these. Worse, these metals tend to stick around and become concentrated in the body, building up over time, and are considered to have a cumulative effect.

Storage in teeth and bones leads to these harmful metals to build up over time, and high concentrations can affect many of the body’s systems. Children are particularly vulnerable, with heavy metal poisoning linked to intellectual disability and death. Lead can in addition damage the brain, the nervous system, the liver and kidney function, as well as adversely affecting bone and reproductive health.

As a naturally occurring metal in the Earth’s crust, lead is harmless if left undisturbed. However, when it is altered for human use, it can become highly toxic. The World Health Organisation (WHO) argues that no known level of lead exposure can be considered safe ².

Lead in lipsticks

Lead serves no purpose in lipstick, except by perhaps only making a minimal contribution to the lipstick’s color. Because lead is present in small amounts, companies are not obligated to show it as an ingredient. The rationale of the safety of lipsticks containing lead, is that absorption and ingestion is limited. After all, lipsticks are intended for topical and short-term use only. But marketing strategies promoting a ‘longer lasting’ effect make this safety evaluation even more crucial.

Growing Awareness

Lead can be unavoidable, as it’s not only found in cosmetics, but also in the food chain and our water supply. This means, that if poor-quality water is used in production in an effort to cut cost, the product can be contaminated.

However, a concerning awareness of the beauty industry is growing amongst consumers. This has prompted researchers, brands and entire markets to question the use of toxic ingredients in cosmetics. The shift towards organic and toxin-free cosmetics has influenced companies and manufacturers alike. In this way, the concern over products containing toxic heavy metals has been the strongest driving force in the movement towards safer cosmetics.

Toxic ingredients to avoid

Due to the risk of exposure, contamination and accumulation, it’s important to address the unsafe trace ingredients in lipsticks. Ingredients to avoid are:

• Lead acetate
• Chromium
• Thimerosal
• Hydrogenated cotton seed oil
• Sodium hexametaphosphate

Limiting the use of lipsticks is one way to go about reducing exposure. But the day women are forced to give up lipstick will be a sad day. Alternatives are choosing lip stains or tints that use naturally-sourced colors and pigments.

Some safer mineral ingredients found in lipsticks are:

• Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (non-nanoized): These ingredients give lipsticks a matte effect. They are also found in sunscreen, and when included in a lipstick can provide sun protection. A good example are the lip crayons from Ilia Beauty.
• Iron oxide (non-nanoized): Naturally found in the earth as a rich red-rusty brown pigment, iron oxide is an affordable and safe way to give a colorful yellow-orange-red flare to lipsticks. Kjaer Weis uses the natural mineral in their organic lip tints.
• Silica: A mineral found in plants and most commonly known to strengthen hair, skin, and nails, silica functions to thicken lipsticks and offers sun protection.
• Mica: Reflects the light and gives lipstick a shimmery appearance. Most naturally-sourced lipsticks contain mica, such as the ones from the RMS range.

Amazingy pro tip: Mix any mineral powder blush or eye shadow with an uncoloured lip balm to create your desired colour.

What are you secrets to keeping your lips luscious, beautiful and out of harm’s way?
Share your tips and suggestions with other readers in the comment section below.

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References:

1. Campaign for Safe Cosmetics- Lead in lipstick

2. World Health Organisation, Chemical Assessment 

3. Lead: Chemistry, analytical aspects, environmental impact and health effects

4. Berkley News: Poison lips? Troubling levels of toxic metals found in cosmetics

5. Campaign for Safe Cosmetics – Lead and other heavy metals