An important point to think about is the fact that during World War II, the U.S. government understood the need to maintain the morale of the women who worked in places related to war, and therefore provided them lipstick. So yes, lipstick apparently can change our mood and could be a strategic tool.
Although the lipstick applicator we see nowadays was created in modern times, the starting point of lipstick’s journey is in 5000 B.C. – both in the Indus Valley culture (today’s Pakistan and Western India), an area that was an ancient and important cosmetic and technological center, and in ancient Mesopotamia, where it was also invented by the Sumerian.
With the beginning of its use, the rest of the Sumerian inhabitants adopted the custom of painting the lips. The pigments that were used for lips coloring were found in the Mesopoteamian king’s burial and are even mentioned in the Sumerian kings list, called “gold paste” in Sumerian and “red pigment on the face” in Akkadian. In the Mesopotamia region, along with other burial objects made of gold, a decorated pyxis box made of ivory was found. The custom of lip painting resonated with other surrounding cultures, as shortly after the Syrian also began painting their lips, similar to the Babylonians and the Persians.
In Persia (present-day Iran), masks and sculptures showing red lips have been uncovered and dated back to 3500 B.C., as well as in burials of the Iranian people in earlier periods. They would show up later on in trades routes and spread to different locations – and even further in the east, in Japan and China, there is a long history of lip painting.
It is not clear whether the use of lip pigments reached ancient Egypt or if it was a separate and independent development, but either way, Egypt was an early center of cosmetics which includes various tools, rouge for lips and cheeks, kohl and many other makeup products which have been produced by cosmetic professionals. During the peak and decline of the empire, the importance of lipstick increased and the popular colours included red, orange, magenta (red-oval) and blue-black. In everyday life, lip pigments were applied with a wet wooden stick.
Lip coloring was popular in the ancient pre-Greek cultures of the Aegean region in Crete, Santorini/Thira and the Minoans, between 1700-1400 B.C., and took place in the important and high society of pre-Roman Etruscans culture where, it is worth mentioning, a 2500-year-old lipstick was discovered in an Etruscan burial.
Nofretete, 14th century B.C.
In general, it can be said that when Egypt began to fall and Greek culture began to flourish and spread, lipstick and makeup became dominant, especially among prostitutes. But if at first the Greeks advocated natural and clean beauty without makeup, starting from 4th century B.C., makeup became an important element of the Greek woman’s home. At the point in time between 700-300 B.C., lip painting entered the classical Greek mainstream culture and became popular, and women used to paint their lips in a fiery red color. Along with this, lower class women continued to avoid makeup.
Fresco of a Minoan woman in the Knossos palace, circa 1350 B.C.
Similar to the Greeks, in the beginning of the Roman Empire, the Romans did not use makeup, but along with the buildup of Greek influence, this practice began to spread among both men and women. When the Greek empire fell and the Roman empire began to stabilize, lip coloring returned to gain popularity between 150-31 B.C. During Nero’s reign, the majority of the utilization of cosmetic products was attributed to women from the aristocracy; women from the lower classes consumed cosmetics in a limited fashion, while the upper class developed different trends of makeup and lip coloring.
Roman women portrait with glossy lips from the middle of 2nd century. (D’ambra, 2007: Abb.: 59)
With the fall of the Roman Empire and during the beginning of the Christian era, lip tint remained popular among women despite the anti-cosmetic campaign which was led by the church. With that, in the Medieval times in countries like England, painting lips and makeup were linked to the incarnation of Satan.
The ingredients of the lip pigments varied from region to region depending on available materials, colors, technique and the level of technology with which the colors could be produced. For example, the first lip tint attributed to the Mesopotamian queen was made of a mixture of white lead and red stones that were crushed and mixed together.
Among the ingredients to be found over time are ocher, white lead, various plants, vegetables and fruits, shellfish, red soil, hematite (iron mineral) powder, mercury, wine and even more unusual ingredients such as sheep’s sweat, human saliva, crocodile excrement and much more. Some of the ingredients used to produce the pigments are toxic substances that could lead to death, e.g. mercury and vermilion.
“The Erotic Papyrus”
At first, lip tint was used by the royals. Various ancient cultures such as the Syrians and Egyptians applied lipstick with no gender segregation, and it was used by both men and women in everyday life.
After the fall of the Roman empire and during the Christian era, the cosmetic trade was damaged, although women continued to paint their lips. However this habit received strong opposition from the church which introduced anti-cosmetic sentiments and linked the custom to the devil. Also in Rome between 150-31 B.C., lipstick defined social status – the color of the men’s lipstick indicated their status in the society, as new colors indicated social uniqueness. The wife of the emperor Nero, Poppaea Sabina, kept about a hundred servants to help her keep her lips painted all the time and pretty soon after her, Roman women started using different lipsticks in red or purple shades.
There were places and periods when lip coloring was used only by women, such as in Crete, Santorini and in the Minoan culture. Athenian women used to wear makeup as well in the 5th and 4th centuries B.C.
When Greek culture began to flourish and spread, lipstick became dominant especially among prostitutes. During this period, the regulations and the first law attributing lipstick to prostitution was actually formed. Under Greek law, prostitutes who appeared in public at disallowed hours of the day and without makeup (including the lips) could be punished for posing as respectable ladies.
Similar to Ancient Greece, in early Roman times, lip coloring was related to prostitution. All this changed during the time of Nero, when the custom of lip makeup made its way from the status of prostitutes and foreigners to the status of the elite, while the lower class continued to avoid makeup.
Two-tiered cosmetic box from the Han Dynasty, containing nine small boxes.
Lipstick remains a powerful symbol, deeply embedded in cultural, social, and economic contexts. Despite its evolution over thousands of years, its fundamental significance has endured, making it one of the most beloved and impactful makeup products globally.
In contemporary society, lipstick is more than just a cosmetic item; it is a statement of personal identity and a powerful tool of self-expression. The diverse range of colors and finishes available allows individuals to convey different moods, emotions, and facets of their personality. From the boldness of a bright red to the subtlety of a nude shade, each choice of lipstick can reflect a unique aspect of the wearer’s character. This modern use aligns with historical practices where the color and use of lipstick often signified social status or personal identity.
Interestingly, the phenomenon known as the “lipstick effect” illustrates how lipstick consumption spikes during economic downturns. Studies have shown that in challenging economic times, consumers may forgo larger luxury purchases but continue to indulge in smaller, more affordable luxuries like lipstick. This behavior underscores lipstick’s role as a mood booster and a small but significant means of maintaining a sense of normalcy and confidence during tough times.
The historical journey of lipstick, from ancient Mesopotamia to modern times, reflects its consistent cultural significance. In ancient civilizations, both men and women used lipstick to denote social status and personal style. Today, while predominantly used by women, lipstick continues to break gender norms, with more people embracing makeup to express their identity. This progressive shift challenges traditional gender roles and celebrates individuality, much like ancient practices where lip pigments were used without gender segregation in some cultures.
Furthermore, the strategic use of lipstick in history, such as during World War II, highlights its psychological impact. Lipstick can uplift spirits, instill confidence, and even serve as a form of silent protest or empowerment. Modern movements have seen lipstick as a symbol of feminist empowerment, where wearing bold colors can be an act of defiance against societal expectations or constraints.
In essence, the journey of lipstick from ancient times to the present day illustrates its enduring appeal and multifaceted role. It is not just a beauty product but a powerful cultural artifact that continues to adapt and resonate with people across different eras and societies. The story of lipstick is a testament to its enduring legacy as a symbol of beauty, power, and personal expression.
Tutanchamon, 14th Century B.C.
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