Citrus Fruits — Cover Photo by Karolina Grabowska

Eye on Ingredients: Vitamin C

by Shiran Shasha
October 25, 2024
in Beauty, Eye on Ingredients, Knowledge, Skin Care
0

There are good reasons why vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in the world. This gem protects our skin from daily stress, pollution and other environmental damages; it also boosts the effects of sunscreen and neutralizes the consequences of exposure to UVA and UVB radiation. It is a collagen builder and even helps reduce pigmentation. There are many vitamin C derivatives which fulfill different purposes. Take your pick – you’re sure to find the right vitamin C that suits your skin’s needs.

Active or inactive?

There are two main groups of vitamin C: active and inactive. And what does that mean?
Well, the active form is ready to work as soon as it’s applied to the skin, while the inactive form becomes active after time.

The active form of vitamin C is called L-Ascorbic Acid which is, by the way, the most studied type of vitamin C. It has definitely been shown to be effective in reducing fine lines and pigmentation, and basically all the other good effects that I mentioned above. That said, it is highly unstable and causes irritation for many people. If you have sensitive or inflamed skin, or a broken skin barrier, this form of vitamin C is not recommended for you to use. However, if you really do want to use it, go for a lower percentage(!) and remember: higher does not equal better.

Regarding instability, when L-Ascorbic Acid encounters oxygen it has a highly negative effect on its efficacy, so when purchasing and opening a product formulated with this form of vitamin C, use it fast – meaning do not let it sit on your shelf to collect dust, as it will soon lose all its benefits. Also, do not rush to combine it straight away with vitamin A (such as retinol), since this mixture could easily irritate your skin.

(L-Ascorbic Acid can be found in Josh Rosebrook’s C Bright Complex, which will hopefully be back in stock soon!)

While the active form offers great benefits, as mentioned, it is also very unstable and not suitable for many. Therefore the inactive forms of vitamin C are a great alternative and some even surpass the results of the active form. There are many options for vitamin C derives in the market – here are some of the better options.

A solid choice for beginners who wish to brighten their skin is Ascorbyl Glucoside. You will find it in the Mádara Vitamin C Illuminating Recovery Cream as well as their Vitamin C Intense Glow Concentrate, and the Super Serum Anti-Pollution Fluid from A. Florence Skincare.

Another effective derivative of vitamin C is Ethyl Ascorbyl Acid, also known as 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. Not only is it highly stable, it also has anti-inflammatory benefits which help to minimize redness. If a product with such an effect would be your holy grail, you can reach for HoliFrog’s Sunnyside C Glow Serum as well as their Sunapee Sacred-C Brightening Powder Wash, where you could find it combined with another vitamin C derivative, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Or else you may find that the Vitamin C Complex from Susanne Kaufmann is the one you were looking for.

For all my acne fighters and oily skin havers, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is the derivative you should look out for. It is very stable and not irritating; it helps with brightening the complexion and building collagen, along with having antioxidant properties. However, issues with absorption may occur. In this category, I believe NUORI’s The One Face Cream is perfect and offers many other active ingredients on top of that.

And we kept our favorite forms of vitamin C for the end: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. These two are often referred to as one, however they are not the same – although they share a lot in common, such as similar chemical structure. Likewise, neither of them require an acidic environment to develop their potential effects and are also more stable at higher temperatures than L-Ascorbic Acid. They have been shown to offer similar benefits to it though, mainly in antioxidant and collagen-boosting power, as well as in evening out the skin tone. Interestingly enough, studies have also shown that it can reduce inflammation caused by acne, making it a wise choice for acne-prone skin types.

TetraHexyldecyl Ascorbate

Although it is the lesser studied of the two, it has been proven to penetrate the skin effectively and shows great results – even better than the active form(!), so this is indeed a great option. This form of vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, helps with the building of collagen, exfoliation, and the promotion of cell turnover. Plus, it can brighten the skin tone. It is very stable and suitable for the majority of skin types. You can find it in our FYI A.C.E. Serum, as well as A. Florence’s Super Serum Anti-Pollution Fluid or Leahlani’s Meli GLOW Illuminating Nectar Mask.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Matching in effect to all those forms that have already been mentioned, and again, research shows that this form is indeed very stable and not irritating, suitable even for sensitive skin types. You’ll find this ingredient in Ruhi’s The Adaptogen Vitamin C Oil Serum, Oio Lab’s The Future Is Bright Brightening Facial Oil, and Pai’s Stabilised Vitamin C 20% – Brightening Booster, Fade Forward Serum, and C-2 Believe Cream. If this is what your skin is looking for, I implore you to give them a try!