Eye on Ingredients: Vitamin A

If you had to choose one active ingredient to be integrated into your skincare routine, that would and should definitely be the infamous vitamin A. That is, of course, if your skin can tolerate it. Some of the most known vitamin A family members are: retinol, retinal and granactive retinoid. This family gets a lot of attention, is heavily researched and performs like a profi in all the studies; it is indeed one of the most studied ingredients in the skincare industry.

As we all have learned, the renewal processes of the skin and body slows down as we age. The Retinoid family offers many benefits, seeing as they target wrinkles, uneven texture, pigmentation and acne. What else? They can help to reduce inflammation, unclog pores, alleviate the symptoms of eczema, stimulate collagen production and improve collagen density, and can even help the skin renew itself. They are also UV and pollution damage fighters, helping to reduce some of the effects of our (at times) less healthy lifestyle habits.

 

Leahlani Skincare - Aqua A Retinoid Renewing Serum

Leahlani Skincare – Aqua A Retinoid Renewing Serum

 

Are there more family members?

It’s quite an extended family, consisting of retinal, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl propionate, hydroxypinacolone retinoate… However the most prominent of all is retinol, which is a weaker variant (yet still very effective!) and is available over the counter, as well as in some of the products on our Amazingy webshop. If you gain experience with retinol (over time, do not skip the time you need to adjust), and your skin can tolerate it without any problem, you can go for even stronger forms – readily available through your dermatologist, which by the way, is always a good idea: going to the dermatologist once a while for a regular checkup. However it would be best to warn you using a stronger active is not always better for you and your skin… especially if you have sensitive or dry skin, or any issue that prevents your skin from tolerating stronger ingredients.

 

Alex Carro - Bio-Retinol Daily Tonic

Alex Carro – Bio-Retinol Daily Tonic

 

Why should I go for the weaker member of the Retinoid family?

Put simply: stronger forms might cause irritation. Not only that, you could end up burning your skin, inflaming it and worsening its condition. Be weary, and make sure to go with lower percentages or less harsh formulations, and please start off with low frequency. Meaning once or twice a week, and that is for all of you with sensitive, dry, damaged skin or any of you with various skin allergies. Also FYI: some of the “lucky” ones with normal skin types, it may not be easy for your skin to tolerate such strong active ingredient.

 

FYI Cosmetics - A.C.E. Serum with Bakuchiol

FYI Cosmetics – A.C.E Serum with Bakuchiol

 

What about acne?

The acne-fighters among us will definitely regain some skin clarity with the use of vitamin A. It can help remove dirt and oil, as well as dead skin cells, regulate sebum production, and prevent new pimples. On top of that, this ingredient has anti-inflammatory effects. And if all that was not enough for you to be convinced, it will also reduce the appearance of acne scarring over time (the key phrase here is “over time” … so make sure you stay consistent). 

 

HoliFrog - Moonbeam Retinol Treatment Serum

HoliFrog – Moonbeam Retinol Treatment Serum

 

OK, OK… but HOW does it work?

Retinol is an antioxidant. This means it can put a stop to the negative effects of harmful free radicals that hasten the effects of skin ageing. Upon application to skin, retinol converts to retinal and then into its bioactive form, which makes it easier to tolerate than the other vitamin A forms. It can come in various forms such as creams, gels, liquids. BUT, here again, you have to stick to some rules —

  • Start slowwwww, which means once or twice a week to start, and stick with that at least for the first month.
  • If (and only if!) your skin can tolerate it, and you use it over time without any issues, than you can apply it more often…which brings us to the next rule:
  • Do not think that a higher percentage is automatically better, because you have the potential to destroy your skin with those “good intentions”.
  • A retinol serum should always be followed with moisturizer!
  • Do NOT combine retinol with other active ingredients if you are a beginner – you will more than likely cause your skin to burn.
  • Only incorporate it into your nighttime routine. Retinol will make your skin sensitive and the exposure to the sun and UV will damage your skin. Which brings us to the last and arguably most important point:
  • USE YOUR SUNCREEN / SUN PROTECTION!!!!  Using products with vitamin A will make your skin sensitive, so don’t make it worse and use your sunscreen. Yes, even in winter as well!

 

Who should use vitamin A and who should pass?

  • Avoid using any member of the retinoid family while you are pregnant! Ask the doctor in case you are breastfeeding, health always comes first. 
  • That will be a bit controversial, but you do not need to use any sort of vitamin A derivative as a teenager who is not suffering from a severe acne condition. In my humble opinion: you are way too young to bother yourself with anti-aging products and solutions. Enjoy your teeny teen years and protect yourself with sunscreen. So when should you start? You can consider it when your skin has matured a bit (please wait at least until you are in your mid-twenties … and meanwhile, do not smoke ?).

 

Mádara Cosmetics - TIME MIRACLE Botanic Retinol Serum

Mádara Cosmetics – TIME MIRACLE Botanic Retinol Serum

 

What else do you need to know?

In the event that retinol does irritate your skin, first use it at a lower frequency, do not rush! Then, use skincare products containing calming ingredients and antioxidants, that do not contain active or harsh components (e.g. RAAW Alchemy’s Blue Drops).

 

Ruhi - The Adaptogen Body Oil Serum

Ruhi – The Adaptogen Body Oil Serum

 

(Research also shows that the combination of retinol with an AHA exfoliator brings better results.)

 

Unrefined Riches - HYPER G[L]O Renewing Night Serum

Unrefined Riches – HYPER G[L]O Renewing Night Serum

 

All the active ingredients can be found in the INCI database on our web shop, where you’ll be able to look through all the specific Amazingy products which contain them.

 

 

I want to see the results!

Some of us will see improvements in skin texture in a matter of weeks, however most of us will notice the difference after 2-4 months. There is also a chance that you will ‘enjoy’ an acne breakout in the first few weeks… but I implore you to not give up and stay consistent, the results will come!

 

Oio Lab - Lunula Night Anti-Ageing Night Facial Oil

Oio Lab – LUNULA NIGHT Anti-Ageing Night Facial Oil

 

Final words…

As with every ingredient we introduced, mentioned and recommended, you have to remember and understand that this is not magic. We do not want to push unrealistic expectations. There are many benefits you could enjoy from retinol, and with it, there is no such a thing as a single ingredient that will solve all your skin issues and needs. 

You should use other beneficial products, besides retinol, some of them for targeting your specific skincare goal, others for cleansing, calming, nourishing and protecting your skin. It is also crucial to understand that we are talking about skincare products, not invasive procedures. If you have deep wrinkles, vitamin A products will soften them, but they won’t completely disappear. With that being said, integrating retinol into your routine correctly can help to improve aging signs, skin texture, even out your skin tone, and make your skin glow at its most radiant.

 

Well, that’s about it. I hope that this article was helpful and that you gained some knowledge that can support you in utilizing the right skincare ritual at home. Do not forget to eat healthy, get enough sleep, do some sports, practice some good habits. And do not forget to stay amazing(y)!

 

Mádara Cosmetics - RETINOL ALTERNATIVE Bakuchiol Oil

Mádara Cosmetics – RETINOL ALTERNATIVE Bakuchiol Oil

 

Bibliography and further reading:
Kafi, Reza & Kwak, Heh & Schumacher, Wendy & Cho, Soyun & Hanft, Valerie & Hamilton, Ted & King, Anya & Neal, Jacqueline & Varani, James & Fisher, Gary & Voorhees, John & Kang, Sewon Improvement of Naturally Aged Skin With Vitamin A (Retinol). Archives of dermatology. 143.  2007.  606-12. 10.1001/archderm.143.5.606.
Quan, T. Human Skin Aging and the Anti-Aging Properties of Retinol. Biomolecules 2023, 13, 1614. https://doi.org/10.3390/biom13111614
Sarah Tozer, Cian O’Mahony, Jen Hannah, John O’Brien, Seamus Kelly, Kirstin Kosemund-Meynen, Camilla Alexander-White, Aggregate exposure modelling of vitamin A from cosmetic products, diet and food supplements, Food and Chemical Toxicology,Volume 131. 2019.
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