Peptides in skincare have been around for years, and yet recently, they are getting more spotlight. So, what are peptides? Peptides are fragments of protein. They naturally occur in the skin, and as you will see, in many skin care products.

Why and for what reason do we need peptides? 

As we march towards our elderly years, our collagen production decreases, which leads to wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Adding peptides to your routine can help your skin to produce collagen. The produce of more collagen will promote elastic and firmer skin, as well as keep your skin plump. And if that is not enough to convince you, peptides can also help build up a stronger skin barrier, repair damaged skin, ease inflamed skin and lastly, even out your complexion. 

Kosas – Plump + Juicy Lip Booster

Votary – Super Seed Facial Serum

How do peptides work?

Peptides penetrate the outer layer of the skin and sink deeper. But, there are many, many different peptides! It’s like an ocean of peptides and to make it more complicated, most of the peptides are known and associated with other names. Each of these peptides works in a specific way and targets skin care needs. It is complicated, yes, and yet, you will be happy to know that they all bear the ability for skin restoration.

So to make it a bit more simple, all you need to know is that there are four main groups of peptides, that we are looking in skincare:

1. Carrier peptides
(boost collagen, firm the skin, and help to fight aging signs)

They are also known as copper peptides or copper carriers. As the name suggests, they deliver copper and magnesium to skin. They will assist with elastin production, promote wound healing, improve skin firmness, repair your skin barrier, and soften wrinkles.

Pai Skincare – Bonne Nuit – BioPeptide Renewal Night Cream

Gentlerist – Ambrosia Beauty Nectar

2. Enzyme inhibitors
(preventing the breakdown of collagen)

In this group, there are different peptide derivatives. Some peptides, such as peptides derived from rice proteins, will retain more collagen, while others can help prevent hyperpigmentation.

M Picaut – Skin Perfect Moisturizer

3. Signal peptides
(most common peptide group; helping and promoting of collagen production)

As their name hints to, they send signals to the skin to stimulate production of collagen, elastin and other protein goodies. How do they do that? Well, they are tricking our bodies and sending out false alarms about wounded areas. 

HoliFrog – Owel Multi-Peptide Eye Cream

Josh Rosebrook – Ultra Peptide Cream

4. Neurotransmitter peptides
(known as “botox peptides”; slowing down the process of skin aging)

This group of peptides could win the category of the most commercialized peptides group. Often they are marketed as “botox in a bottle” – and while many companies are pushing these peptides as miracle workers, they will not and can not replace injectable alternatives. With that being said, they do indeed demonstrate a noticeable improvement of fine lines, especially around the eyes, and will target expression lines.

One of the most prominent peptides in this group is Argireline, which is also known as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (as I mentioned before, peptides bear a slew of names). This is one with the potential of anti-aging effects. It reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by our facial expressions. You will find these peptides in various serums, creams, and anti-aging treatments.

FYI Cosmetics – Multi-Effect Eye Serum

Unrefined Riches – [MIL]KEY TREAT Brightening Body Lotion

All the active ingredients can be found in the INCI database on our web shop, where you’ll be able to look through all the specific Amazingy products which contain them.

And for those who would like a little recap, this table will summarize the four groups.

(source: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/111)

Is it safe to use? And how to?

Peptides are safe for all skin types.  You will find them in many products like serums and moisturizers. Look for a product that will stay on your skin for a long period of time, meaning, not the one that you wash off after applying.

To achieve the best results, peptides can and should be combined with various other active ingredients, of course, as long as your skin can tolerate it. Those combinations can be antioxidants such as vitamin C, or others like Niacinamide. Exceptions are the exfoliators AHA, BHA and PHA, as these combinations can make peptides less efficient!

Final words…

There’s no single ingredient or cream or “holy grail” that can be used to alleviate all the signs of aging or any other skin issue. Do not expect your peptides to act like a laser or facelift treatment. Keep a more realistic approach and combine it with other active ingredients and nourishing products – stay chill, relaxed and healthy, eat in a balanced manner, drink your water, move your body and use your sun protection!

NUORI – The One Face Cream

Alex Carro – Detox Superfood Mask

HoliFrog – Grand Amino Cushion Cream

Cover Photo by Ron Lach on Pexels

Bibliography and further reading:
Jeong S, Yoon S, Kim S, Jung J, Kor M, Shin K, Lim C, Han HS, Lee H, Park KY, Kim J, Chung HJ, Kim HJ. Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression. Int J Mol Sci. 2019 Dec 20;21(1):73. doi: 10.3390/ijms21010073. PMID: 31861912; PMCID: PMC6981886.
Ngoc LTN, Moon J-Y, Lee Y-C. Insights into Bioactive Peptides in Cosmetics. Cosmetics. 2023; 10(4):111. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040111
Veiga, Eliana & Ferreira, Laura & Correia, Mafalda & Pires, Patrícia & Hameed, Huma & Araujo, Andre & Cefali, Letícia & Mazzola, Priscila & Hamishehkar, Hamed & Veiga, Francisco & Paiva-Santos, Ana Cláudia. (2023). Anti-aging peptides for advanced skincare: Focus on nanodelivery systems. Journal of Drug Delivery Science and Technology. 105087. 10.1016/j.jddst.2023.105087.