AHAs, PHAs & BHAs are commonly used acids in the skincare industry. There are multiple AHAs and PHAs, whereas the most common BHA is salicylic acid. Exfoliating using AHAs, PHAs & BHAs is gentle and a great replacement to other harsh methods of exfoliation, such as scrubs. They share many similarities, and yet serve different purposes – overall BHAs & PHAs are more effective for oily & acne-prone skin. PHAs is most suitable for sensitive skin, which usually cannot tolerate AHAs & BHAs. Integrating any of these acids as part of your skincare routine can help to reduce the appearance of flaky skin, blemishes and keratosis pilaris. Additional benefits include brightening the complexion and reducing the appearance of fine lines.

NINI Organics – Violet AHA & BHA Resurfacing Mask

AHAs & BHAs work to break down the gluey substance that keeps skin cells joined together, and by doing so they remove the top layer of old skin cells. This action makes the skin grow more cells, increasing cell turnover. As you age, your natural cellular renewal cycle slows down, which can make dead skin cells build up. Dead skin cell accumulation can also exacerbate other underlying skin issues like wrinkles, age spots, acne, etc.

With long-term use, AHAs may also keep the skin plump by increasing collagen and elastin in the skin, which maturally decrease with age. When these acids exfoliate your skin, dead skin cells are broken down. The new skin revealed beneath is brighter and more radiant. AHAs with glycolic acid can help break down dead skin cell accumulation, while products with citric acid can brighten your skin even further.

More & more benefits!

M Picaut – Pearl Luminous Gentle PHA Serum

AHAs have anti-aging effects and provide the assistance in reducing the appearance of superficial lines and wrinkles, however they are not as helpful when it comes to deeper wrinkles. Another benefit  to the skin is its anti-inflammatory properties, which can help with pale and dull complexions. On top of that, as far as we know, discoloration also increases with age – with time, we start to see more dark spots all over our face & body, either due to varying skin issues or sun damage. Since the use of AHAs or BHAs boosts the skin’s cellular turnover, long-term use tends to help reduce skin discoloration as well.

In addition, chemical exfoliation using AHAs & BHAs can help with treating and preventing recurring acne by loosening and lessening clogged pores. This process helps to reduce the size of enlarged pores and acne scars. For example, products with a combination of citric and malic acid would be perfect for inflamed skin. In addition to their own distinct benefits, AHAs & BHAs can make your existing products work better by increasing their absorption potential; as they remove the uppermost layer of dead skin cells, they enable your serums & moisturizers to hydrate your new skin cells more effectively.

Mádara Cosmetics – PEEL Hyaluron Intense Peel Serum

AHAs, PHAs, BHAs, so many acids… What’s the difference?

These chemical exfoliants work in two ways: by lifting off the build-up of dead cells on the skin’s surface to reveal a brighter, smoother complexion (in the case of alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs), or by penetrating into the pores to shift build-up and help clear breakouts (in the case of beta hydroxy acids – BHAs).

BHAs are perfect for acne, sensitive and inflamed skin, whereas AHAs are more appropriate for age-related skin concerns, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Another difference is that AHA seems to be more effective with reducing skin pigmentation or dark marks on the skin, such as melasma, age spots and sun damage.

BHA is less aggressive and irritating from those two, and has additional antibacterial properties that calm inflamed and damaged skin. Another important profit of BHA is that it helps clear acne, blackheads and whiteheads by unclogging pores made from trapped dead skin cells and oil in the hair follicles. On the top it will improve skin texture and sun-related discoloration.

PHAs are gentle chemical acids that are related to AHAs. Similar to AHAs, PHAs  exfoliate on the skin’s outer surface. Unlike AHA and BHA, PHAs have a large molecular structure, which in return penetrate the skin slowly and don’t get deep to the skin as AHAs or BHAs. Instead, they gently and gradually exfoliate the skin, which makes it the best option even for highly sensitive skin types, and skin problems such as rosacea and eczema. PHAs Repairs skin, exfoliates away dead skin, reduces the appearance of skin damage..

In summary, AHAs are more appropriate for age-related skin concerns, while BHAs and PHAs are for sensitive, acne-prone skin.

If you’re looking for significant exfoliation, and you do not have sensitive skin, then AHAs may be the right for you. 

Votary – Blemish Rescue Oil – Tamanu & Salicylic

How To…

AHAs and BHAs and PHAs are in a variety of products which could be used in different ways such as cleansers, toners, serums, moisturizers or masks. While some are washed-off, others require to leave them on the skin.

AHAs can be pretty intense, so depending on the concentration of your product, you probably want to limit your usage to once or twice a week. 

For those with sensitive skin, BHAs and PHAs are suitable for everyday use, such as toner, and then you could, if your skin tolerates, corporate AHA skin peeling once a week for deeper exfoliation.

Of course, you may find some products which combine AHA and BHA at once, or AHA and PHA.

HoliFrog – Halo AHA + BHA Evening Serum

*WARNING ALERT*

As always do not overdo it and do not use too many exfoliators, too frequently and in any case not higher than 10% you could burn your skin, damage the skin barrier, causing dryness or flakiness and uneven your skin tone. AHAs and BHAs increase sensitivity to UV damage, so it  is crucial to use sun protection every day while they are using them.

HoliFrog – Kosi Multi-Acid Mask

When using multiple products for your skin, it’s important to incorporate them into your regimen gradually. Using too many AHAs, BHAs or PHAs, and other chemicals at once can cause irritation. The result of too many active products will cause wrinkles, acne, and other skin concerns. Please listen to your skin and remember that it is always better to integrate active ingredients slowly and gradually.

Unrefined Riches – BODY [A]PEEL Renewing Gel Exfoliant

And while we keep exfoliating, moisturizing and protecting our face, it is also important to pay attention to our body. Exfoliating and moisturizing our body is crucial for maintaining, clean and healthy skin. There are various products one can use, like gentle peeling and creams, containing BHAs. Just take your time when using these actives and stay vigilant – glowing skin is on your horizon!

M Picaut – Amazing Effortless Body Peel Mask

Cover Photo by Anna Tarazevich on Pexels