We all wish to look fresh and healthy, we aim to maintain our good looks, and as long as we cannot prevent aging, we do wish to at least age well. This idea of youth is and has been permanently embedded in every civilization around the world, targeting mostly, but not only, women. The beauty industry is full of slogans and promises which, again and again, feed into the fantasy of “anti-aging” and feign to pump us the next “holy grail of youth” into a bottle. While some products with active ingredients could definitely assist us in keeping our skin at its healthiest, one should always bear in mind that lifestyle, sleep, stress, good or bad habits (e.g. please quit smoking ?), the food that we consume – these all make an immense impact on our skin, especially as we walk through life towards our elderly years.

Now before we dive deep into the active ingredients: if you do not use sun protection, this is the time to start. Yes, some products have the possibility to fix some of these problems, i.e. to reverse sun damage, smooth and brighten the skin; however, the use of sunscreen, in winter as well as in summer, can serve to help us to push signs of aging to a much later stage. Oh and one more thing – no product contains “magic in a bottle”. Your skincare routine should be consistent, but not overwhelming to your skin, so do not overdo it, and over time you will see results.

This article will serve as an introduction for active ingredients, after which more specific articles will follow detailing the properties and usage of certain active ingredients in the green beauty industry.

Fresco showing a woman looking in a mirror as she dresses (or undresses) her hair, from the Villa of Arianna at Stabiae (Castellammare di Stabia), Naples National Archaeological Museum.

So what do you need to know?

There are various types of active ingredients which target different issues: exfoliants, skin lightening agents, antioxidants and astringents.

Surfactants: Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sucrose Cocoate, Coco Glucoside, etc.

Antioxidants: Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Carotenoids, Polyphenols, Copper, Zinc

Exfoliants: AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), BHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), PHAs (Poly Hydroxy Acids), etc.

Astringents: Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Rosewater, etc.

Skin Lightening Agents: Kojic Acid, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Tretinoin, Salicylic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, etc.

What do you need to keep in mind?

• Higher percentages are not necessarily better!
• Inactive ingredients are necessary in formulas in order to support the more active ones.
• The formulation of a product indeed makes a difference.
• All skin is not made equal! Please listen to yours <3

First Wrinkle by Federico Zandomeneghi

All the active ingredients below (as well as many others) can be found in the INCI database on our web shop, where you’ll be able to look through all the specific Amazingy products which contain them.

Hyaluronic Acid

Maybe the most popular ingredient over the last decade. It’s almost everywhere and in everything, and of course it’s known for its ability to smooth and hydrate the skin. But you should be aware that some Hyaluronic Acid on the market is animal-derived, although there are vegan options as well. 

Vitamin C

If there is one ingredient that is well known to be associated with glowy and smooth skin, this is definitely vitamin C. This ingredient is an antioxidant that fights environmental damage to the skin, such as that from UV radiation, and serves as a booster for our sun protection. Today’s market is filled with many forms of vitamin C derivatives which all differ from one another; while some are active, others are inactive. 

The active form of vitamin C is L-Ascorbic Acid, which is the most studied, however it is highly unstable and might generate irritation for some skin types. But you will be happy to know that there are other types of vitamin C that are much more stable and better suited to serve you on your skincare journey. 

Vitamin E is  considered mainly as vitamin C’s stabilizer and it is often paired with it.  This power couple help with reducing free radical damage as well as the appearance of scarring.

Vitamin A

A well-studied ingredient with plenty of evidence that shows how well it boosts collagen, reverses sun damage and prevents premature aging, fights acne and free radicals, evens out the complexion and stimulates cell renewal. While it can help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, overusing it could lead to inflammation and speed up the aging process. Since it might be aggressive in higher percentages to some skin types, it is crucial to start low and slow.

Niacinamide

Well-tolerated by most skin types and conditions, it has natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that help address skin problems typically caused by environmental aggressors like pollution, stress, poor diet and lack of sleep. It helps improve the skin’s texture and brighten it, also enhancing its overall quality and thickness.

Peptides

Another popular active ingredient worldwide which is essential for the skin, helping us age gracefully. By working to strengthen the skin barrier, it helps to relax wrinkles, reduce fine lines and inflammation, and increase collagen production – which also aids in the healing of wounds to the skin.

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

This acid acts as an antioxidant, helping to protect the skin against free radicals; it also has an anti-inflammatory effect, decreases the generation of redness, and prevents UV-induced DNA damage that can lead to dark spots. Most importantly, it disrupts your skin’s pigmentation process by preventing UV radiation from triggering an increase in melanin production. 

Ceramides

Not as popular an active ingredient, however, you do need some ceramides in your life. They’re the glue that binds the cells together and will protect your skin from environmental damage as well as hydrate it. Moreover, they can help to strengthen your skin barrier and bear inflammatory properties that are beneficial to your skin’s overall health.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

AHAs and BHAs are both chemical exfoliators; they help with collagen production and are essential in the removal of dirt and dead skin cells, targeting acne and grease stuck in your skin’s pores. AHAs can be used as an exfoliator without the physical scrubbing. BHAs and AHAs have similarities, as both can be suitable for sensitive skin, however AHAs are more appropriate for age-related skin concerns, while BHAs work well for acne-prone skin as they can penetrate more deeply into the skin.

Naked Young Woman in Front of a Mirror by Giovanni Bellini (Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna).

Some final words on inactive ingredients…

This is but a wide spectrum of ingredients and their uses; while some replace the inactive forms when put into product formulas,  the inclusion of other inactive ingredients are crucial to help the actives be properly delivered to and utilized by the skin, as well as to preserve the product and make it aesthetically / physiologically pleasing to the body. Inactive ingredients include buffers, coloring agents, emulsifying agents, fragrances, preservatives, solvents, thickeners and vehicles. Each of these inactive ingredients has its own function or even multiple functions that help to improve product efficacy. The manner in which a product is formulated is equally as important. If products are not formulated correctly, they may become ineffective or at worst, potentially harmful. A good example is Glycerin, which is humectant, meaning it attracts moisture from the air and locks it into the top layer of the skin, leaving it more hydrated. It’s also one component of the skin’s NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factors).

“Love Scene” — Roman mosaic from the Villa Centocelle (Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Antikensammlung).

I hope this introduction helped you to understand the big picture of the term “active ingredients”. In the upcoming Eye on Ingredient articles, we will be focusing on each specific active, so you’ll be better prepared to find the right skincare routine and products that match your skin and the goals you set for it ?