Extreme dryness, severe impurities, a sun allergy (as well as melasma, an inherited form of hyperpigmentation) – Hamburg native Adelaide Wolters struggled with skin problems throughout her youth, continuously on the lookout for natural & organic cosmetic solutions that could provide a more gentle alternative for her skin. She eventually came to realize, however, that most of the cosmetic products manufactured to date were simply not suitable for her skin type, nor her skin tone. And so she decided to take matters into her own hands: at the end of 2018, Adelaide entered the world of natural cosmetics full of élan – in her new position as the founder of Unrefined Riches, a brand that offers true skincare treasures.

At the heart of the Unrefined Riches product range is the ingredient shea butter – a centerpiece of Adelaide’s cultural background & home, Ghana. Adelaide’s friends & family became quickly enthralled with her “SHE[A] RAW” moisturizing cream, and she wants to give everyone that same opportunity to nourish their skin & hair with natural care products of the highest quality & purity – effectively and without any limitations. The products from Unrefined Riches are steadily growing in popularity, not the least because of Adelaide’s personal goal for the brand: to create products with which everyone can feel at home in their own skin – a most sincere ode to all our wonderfully different skin types, complexions & hair textures ♡

What is the essence of Unrefined Riches?

Unrefined Riches is deeply invested in inclusivity, and therefore in the normalization and standardization of diversity in all fields. Because everyone – no matter their skin type, skin color or hair texture – should be able to find the right products for them, even in Germany.

Everyone should be able to feel comfortable in their own skin – without having to change according to any social or beauty standards in order to find the right care for them. Effectiveness without restrictions in skin care for a wide variety of skin types, skin tones and hair textures is the motto at UR – because at the end of the day, the product should suit people, not the other way around.

Why was founding Unrefined Riches important to you?

It was important to me to found Unrefined Riches because until September 1, 2018, there was not a single German cosmetics company that consciously included the needs of people with darker complexions – and very curly and frizzy hair types – during product development.

I was and am both, and I do not remember my teenage years very fondly because I could not find the right skin care products, the right hair care products nor the right foundation shade – while my friends, who had lighter complexions, could always try out new makeup products, easily conceal a pimple and treat themselves to a great hair mask.

My dermatologist was also overwhelmed with my melasma and hyperpigmentation, and because of this I told myself that I should just get used to it – that this was the norm for darker skin types, for which there was no solution.

During that time, I often asked myself if there was something wrong with me, not knowing that I was perfect the way I was and that actually, something was wrong with the beauty industry.

It was really because of my mother, who constantly encouraged me to find solutions for my skin and hair problems, that I started to research effective natural ingredients and finally developed my first product, SHE[A] RAW, with which I not only managed to get my own skin problems under control, but also the skin problems faced by many friends and acquaintances (with various skin types and tones).

Unrefined Riches became the first German cosmetics brand that produced products for all skin types, skin colors and hair textures – and even if it’s taken too long for the cosmetics industry to become more diverse, I’m glad that other German cosmetics brands are now moving forward and expanding / adjusting their product ranges.

Everyone should be allowed to be as they were born and as they are, without having to experience systematic, social or industrial disadvantages.

What is your daily skin care routine like, morning and evening?

I use Facetheory’s Cera-C Toner every morning after cleansing my face with my SHEA SOAP. Then I massage a pea size amount of the SHE[A] RAW into my still slightly damp skin – and then, most importantly, I use sunscreen (generally super important, but also for blemished skin or pigment spots, an absolute must).

And the amount of sunscreen (I use this non-whitening from BGS) is important for effective protection (2mg / cm²). A forefinger length of sunscreen for your face and a middle finger length for neck and décolleté are my usual guidelines (credits to @xskincare).

In the evening, I remove my makeup from my face with my facial wash gel, which has been in development since the beginning of last year and will soon be on the market. Then I use that same toner and a serum of mine that is also still in development. It is a must for blemished skin and hyperpigmentation, and I am looking forward to putting it out on the market soon. A pea size amount of SHE[A] RAW and the whole routine is complete.

What was the most difficult part for you in starting your own natural cosmetics brand?

Hmm, where do I start! (*laughter*) First of all, there was 0.1% information to be found on the internet about starting up a cosmetic brand. So I had to laboriously gather information, telephone a lot back and forth with people, and learn a lot in the course of the process.

Furthermore, the development of cosmetic products is very expensive. Many contract manufacturers refused to work with me because the number of shea moisturizing creams I was asking for wasn’t large enough. At the start, 10,000 units was the standard for most of them. And as someone who hadn’t even worked in this industry for 2 years, the pricing offered to me by those same contract manufacturers for packaging my shea cream (I had already developed the recipe) sounded alarming. I made a lot of credit inquiries, and they were continually rejected. At some point, I called one of the banks to ask what the problem was, and I got the answer that I hadn’t been in business long enough, and that I was still quite young and therefore not creditworthy enough.

It did eventually work out with a loan – even if the amount, as it turned out later on, was far from sufficient. So in addition to my full-time jobs, I decided to take on four part-time jobs to get the money for development. At the beginning, it was also very difficult for me to draft any accurate budget plans – lacking the comprehensive knowledge that starting a cosmetic brand requires, there were “additional costs that always came up.”

I also learned to organize testing phases for all the products myself, since the “dermatological test” only included test persons with fair complexions. Unrefined Riches is still a “one-woman company,” but I am looking forward to soon having a small team that supports me at work – ‘cause a girl’s multi-tasking skills are exhausted!

All in all, founding Unrefined Riches meant deconstructing the usual beauty standards to create our own standards – ones that represent the actual norm.

What advice do you have for people with skin issues like you’ve had?

I quickly learned that “popping” pimples is not the solution, and that there are other ways to get rid of them.

And I also learned that my mother was right when she told me to use pure shea butter on my skin, which was riddled with pimples and hyperpigmentation – and I had brought some with me from Ghana. Although its hard consistency wasn’t to my liking, by also using effective oils I learned not only how to develop an enriched shea butter, but also how to develop a more spreadable shea cream.

Particularly, oils – which many people are often wary of – help the skin to stop producing excess sebum, as they signal to the skin that there is already enough oil present. If you also choose the right oils, then they will be easily absorbed and won’t leave an unpleasant greasy film.

I also learned that sun protection is important for all skin tones all year round. My skin – prone to sun allergy – and my melasma thanked me for realizing that. And by the way: skin cancer doesn’t discriminate, so protect your skin from UV rays every day.

Especially in the POC community, there is a myth about sun protection being non-essential for darker skin tones, which is why I launched the IGTV series IGTV-Format „Melanin Care Monday“ last year. Also in the series „Skin Tea“, I try to share a little knowledge about general skin care.

From your perspective, what is missing from the natural cosmetics industry?

I would like the natural cosmetics industry to deal better with natural ingredients. Many companies develop products according to the principle “a lot helps a lot” and often many skin care products consist almost exclusively of essential oils. A little bit of scent is okay in my opinion – and so is no scent at all, of course – but too much is simply too much, and it can irritate the skin a lot.

I have also learned over time that not all natural ingredients are safe and not all synthetic substances are harmful.

Where do you get ideas or inspiration for new products?

My biggest inspiration is the Unrefined Riches community here. I like to listen to what they have to say – involving them in new product developments (e.g. via testing phases and surveys) – and I am always open to criticism, because when it comes down to it, the products should really help them and not just look the part.

Furthermore, I read a lot of American / English research studies on the topic of skin care ingredients, since these more often include test subjects with more varied skin types and complexions. Generally, I try to stay as up-to-date as possible in order to be able to offer the UR community great products.

To what extent does sustainability play a role in your overall process?

I think that today’s generations are the last ones who can truly make a difference before the (environment) world gets worse and there is no turning back.

For this reason, I’ve made the clear decision to use glass jars and paper packaging for my products. The SHE[A] RAW jars are also subject to our Zero Waste Program, so if you return 5 empty SHE[A] RAW jars to Unrefined Riches, you will receive a free SHE[A] RAW as a reward.

The jars are then thoroughly cleaned by the contract manufacturer and re-used. Of course, it is not always easy to offer “plastic-free” packaging. Glass bottles / jars are not advisable for use in the shower, for example. But “zero waste programs” can at least ensure that these are recycled.

What is the future of Unrefined Riches?

I think the future of Unrefined Riches will be a mix bag – difficult but rosy. Difficult because it will never be easy to break down standards and create new ones, but also rosy, because the positive feedback from my customers shows me today and everyday that it is worthwhile to continue encouraging even more people on their journeys towards self-love and self-acceptance.

And hopefully it will be easier for my future children to love themselves in this world.

 Any last words to our Amazingy readers?

In a world that sets unrealistic and even inhumane standards, you have to learn to love yourself the way you are – because you were fearfully and wonderfully made. Don’t let nobody tell you otherwise!

Enjoyed reading this article about Unrefined Riches? Sign up here for our newsletter and get updates, sustainable health & beauty tips, and special offers from our shop – dropped right into your inbox!