Scents can be iconic & memorable. Certain smells can even transfer our whole body and mind to a different sphere. They are often connected to memories, moods and experiences. Scents are important to everyone. Which is why Frances Shoemack, the founder of Abel Odor, has made it her mission to create the world’s best natural perfume. Yes, perfumes no longer have to be loaded with artificial fragrances and preservatives to linger on our skin all day. France’s creations are working with your natural body chemistry to create a scent that is completely unique.

These elegant perfumes are truly an indulgence – and one that does not have a negative impact on our world, so we don’t have to feel guilty while enjoying her luxurious fragrances. Together with Master Perfumer Isaac Sinclair, they selected the world’s finest natural ingredients to create five mesmerizing scents that will evolve on your skin throughout the day. We sat down with Frances and talked about her creations and the relaunch of her brand.

Where did it all begin? Can you tell us a little bit more why and how you decided to start your own company?

Five years ago, I was searching for a natural perfume (that looked and smelled as beautiful as all the emerging niche perfume brands on the shelves). I’ve always wanted to start my own business and have also been super interested in natural living and wellness. So when my search came up short, I drew on my past experiences (especially my background in wine) – and with the naive enthusiasm of someone who’s never started a business before, I threw myself in!

Abel has gone through a complete relaunch. Why did you decide to take that step?

When you have your own business, you really want to invest every breath into making it the best it can possibly be! A year-and-a-half ago we started a journey of questioning everything we were doing and looking at ways we can improve. Rather than improve things step-by-step, I decided to improve everything at once! The new collection and relaunch really is a culmination of everything we’ve learnt the last five years.

We’ve known you before as “Abel Organics”, and now it’s more simply Abel and the new collection “vita odor” – so are you no longer organic, or why did you choose to leave out ‘organic’ from your name?

Organic production is something I really believe in – however, it’s not without its limitations. With the vita odor collection, we wanted to make the best natural perfume possible. We realised we couldn’t do that by limiting ourselves to using only organically certified ingredients. We still use organic (and Fair Trade) certified ingredients where we can, but we also use natural ingredients we can’t get with organic certification (including wild-harvested oils), and natural isolates (naturally derived single aroma compounds). Now that we are no longer using only organic ingredients, it didn’t seem genuine to use the term ‘organic’ in our branding.

You’ve created 5 heavenly scents for Abel Odor. Can you tell us a little bit more about them? What was the inspiration behind each scent? And which fragrance is your personal favorite?

We really wanted a harmonious collection, but one that also had something in there for everyone. Red Santal and White Vetiver are re-formulated versions of our two previous scents Vintage and Tonic, and I’m so happy with the refinements – all the intrigue and unique expression of our originals, but more balanced, perfume-like and longer lasting. Golden Neroli, Cobalt Amber and Grey Labdanum were all results of Isaac (Abel’s Master Perfumer) and I being shut in a room together in Paris for days on end, exploring the notes and ingredients that most inspired us. Labdanum (rock rose) is one of Isaac’s all-time favourite ingredients, and the resulting fragrance is super dark and alluring. Neroli (steam-distilled orange blossom) is a note I’m hugely attracted to, and one I’d been dreaming about turning into a beautiful fragrance for a long time (as you can’t get organically certified neroli). Amber is such a “midnight in Paris” accord that we both fell in love with the idea of creating a chic, modern interpretation… rounds of exploration and many months of refinement from Isaac, and we were there.

I love wearing them all! I love wearing Red Santal again every year as the autumn leaves fall… I loved wearing Golden Neroli while pregnant, White Vetiver while nursing a newborn, Cobalt Amber when heading out in the evening, and Grey Labdanum when I’ve got an important meeting!

What makes Abel stand out from the crowd of endless perfume options on the market?

The easy answer is that we use all-natural ingredients, but the better answer is that what we are doing is 100% honest and transparent – that we genuinely care about what we are creating and where it sits in the world, as well as the artistic expression behind it.

How would you describe your aesthetic & brand ideology?

Our aesthetic is very minimalist and this is a conscious reflection of our ideals for living, as well as our ideals for our brand. Everything we do is done mindfully – we question every input and only go ahead if we think the benefit outweighs the cost. It’s all about the quality of the ingredients and materials, and I think that’s the true luxury of the future.

How does a typical day in your life look like?

If there’s nothing super exciting on the cards, my day looks something like… an early start – and if I’m lucky, a moment of yoga or meditation (and if I’m unlucky, a toddler meltdown!). Then it’s on my bike before 8am and off to meet one of the team at the office or a local café. At the moment, my son Arthur (9-weeks-old) comes with me in a wrap on my chest… I’m lucky because the people I work with have a holistic view on work-life balance and love having Arthur (and sometimes Rufus, my elder son) around. The morning is likely to be taken up with meetings with the team and/or our partners. We are a small, tight-knit team, and although we’re currently integrating lots of online communication and management tools into our workflow (Slack, Trello, etc.), face-to-face time is invaluable. Normally, I’m back at home in time for lunch (something fresh that I can prep easily) and to settle into the afternoon – a mix of emails, calls and breastfeeding!

I try to get out for a walk to the park for some fresh air and, if possible, make this coincide with a catch-up with my husband Dave. He works right next to the park and we’ll walk and talk / spar about what’s going on that day (generally about Abel, but also his work too). And I love to cook – so by late afternoon, I’m already thinking about dinner. Dave and Rufus are normally home by 6 or soon after, so we eat early. Again, it’s a bit mad for an hour or two before the kids go down, followed by a chance for Dave and I to catch up on some more work. I’d like to say we follow that with interesting conversation while listening to music, but the truth is we currently collapse on the couch with an episode of Netflix! (Before an early night!)

What do you like to do in your free time?

Our days tend to be busy, so I like to keep my free time simple. I enjoy nothing more than time spent with my family and friends pottering in Amsterdam, or over good food, coffee or wine – often at our home (I love hosting) or theirs. I love to read, shop at the markets (for food and antiques), grow vegetables in our tiny garden – and although it happens less regularly these days, I really love to travel.

What does the future hold for Abel Odor? What are your personal wishes for the years to come?

We have so many ideas for the future of Abel! But the most important thing is that we stand by our ethos: to grow organically and in a way that feels right and at a pace we can sustain – only offering new products where we see a true desire from our customers, and only when we feel like we’ve perfected something. Not many people believe me when I tell them I’m trying to create a business for life – if I’m still running Abel into my retirement, then I will have done things the way I’d hoped.

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